Issue 3: Closet Confessions: Why I’m Breaking Up with Fast Fashion

This week, I’m breaking down my breakup with fast fashion, exploring its global impact (hi, Ghana), and sharing how slow fashion and thrifting became my new loves. Sustainability, but make it chic!

From ages 3-6, I remember making “couture” clothes out of scrap fabric I found around the house and putting on fashion shows for my family in the living room. My designs might not have been runway-ready, but I had the passion to make up for it. Fashion has always been my thing, a fascination that’s stuck with me for as long as I can remember. By 2008, alongside my secret obsession with Keeping Up with the Kardashians, I lived for the fashion channel and America’s Next Top Model. My sisters and I never missed an episode of either, we were loyal fans, to say the least. Fashion wasn’t just a passing interest for me; it was how I made sense of myself and the world. It still is.

A glimpse into what I was like as a child!

Lucky for me, I had the most supportive parents who let me express myself through my outfits, whether it was for school, church, or family parties. (Though looking back, maybe they should’ve vetoed a few of my “bold” choices.) Even today, I aim to be remembered as “the girl who never had a bad outfit.” That reputation stuck with me through undergrad and my master’s program, some professors even knew me as “the girl who dressed always well.” I guess my closet made its mark.

But here’s where things get real. Until the end of 2021, I was a shopaholic. Like, truly. My closet was overflowing with clothes, some with tags still attached years later. I had convinced myself it wasn’t a problem; I mean, if something was on sale or seemed like a “smart” purchase for the future, I didn’t think twice. I had every excuse under the sun for why buying more was okay. And then there were the ads, constantly reminding me that “This is the dress of the season!” or “Red is the new black!” (As if red wasn’t always a staple…)

So, by the end of 2021, after a huge clothing haul, I had a moment of reckoning. It was time to end my most toxic relationship: fast fashion. I didn’t go cold turkey… I’m not that disciplined, but I did commit to making better choices. Now, I pay attention to fabrics, garment longevity, and the cost-per-wear of anything I buy.

It’s not like I was ever ignorant about the planet or its challenges. I’ve always cared deeply about the climate crisis, the social harms of sweatshops and ocean pollution leading to ocean acidification and coral bleaching; but when it came to my consumption, I had a blind spot. I justified my overconsumption because it was convenient. Looking back, it feels ironic and even embarrassing, especially as someone so passionate about climate-resilient solutions.

Stepping away from fast fashion made me think about the broader impact of clothing consumption; on people, on communities, and on the planet. It’s impossible to ignore how starkly divided this issue is between the Global North and South. In the North, we consume far more than we need, and those choices fuel environmental and social consequences that disproportionately affect the South.

This ties back to one of the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) that resonates deeply with me: SDG 12— Ensuring Responsible Consumption and Production Patterns. Though it’s often associated with food systems and waste management, it also encompasses the fashion industry. With just five years left until 2030, this goal feels more urgent than ever.

The Overconsumption Dilemma

Let’s look at the numbers because they’re hard to ignore. According to Fashion United, in the U.S., the average consumer buys 53 clothing items every year, and in the U.K., it’s 33. But in places like Egypt and Vietnam? Just two. When we compare spending, the gap is just as shocking: $844 per person in the U.S. and $889 in the U.K., while in the global South, it’s a fraction of that, $34 in India, $24 in Vietnam, and $27 in Egypt.

So, what does all of this mean? Essentially, the fast fashion industry of the global North is taking a massive toll on the global South. About 40% of second-hand clothing bales—equivalent to 4 to 6 million garments per week—shipped to the global South end up as waste. Ghana is one of the countries heavily impacted, as it relies on second-hand clothing imports, which only amplifies environmental degradation.

And the consumption numbers keep climbing. Globally, we now consume 62 million tons of clothing annually, and by 2030, that’s expected to hit 102 million tons. To put it into perspective: 60 million tons would fill 8 Manhattan-sized cities and 120 million tons? That’s 16.3 Manhattans, basically the size of Bahrain. Let that sink in.

With stats like these, it’s impossible not to reflect on how much we’re buying, both individually and collectively.

But what’s fueling this unsustainable fashion cycle? For starters, the fast fashion industry thrives on churning out trendy styles at lightning speed for rock-bottom prices. You see something go viral today, and boom, it’s on the racks next week. The catch? These clothes are often poor quality and designed for a short life cycle, which makes the whole model unsustainable.

The consequences are staggering. Studies by Aponte et al. highlight how fast fashion’s environmental footprint is huge; waste is generated not just in production but during consumption too, where it’s either dumped locally or exported to low- and middle-income countries. The European Environmental Agency (EEA) ranks fashion as the fifth-highest industry in terms of emissions across the supply chain, accounting for 4-10% of total global emissions. And it doesn’t stop there: fast fashion also wreaks havoc on water supplies, ecosystems, and even human health.

Now, you might be thinking, “Didn’t we introduce the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) in 2015? Isn’t this exactly what SDG 12, responsible consumption and production was supposed to address?” The short answer: is yes. The reality? Not enough has been done, particularly by the biggest emitters. But don’t worry, this post isn’t about dragging corporations and countries just yet. That conversation is coming soon.

Instead, let’s talk more about why I decided to quit, or, let’s be real, drastically reduce my fast fashion consumption. As a recovering shopaholic, I realized how easily I was being influenced by these brands and their marketing machines. Capitalism constantly tells us we need things we really don’t, and eventually, it started to feel… gross. I was over it. Over my clothes falling apart after a few washes. Over feeling like I was contributing to a system that’s destroying the planet.

So, I took a hard look at my carbon footprint and decided to change. This wasn’t just about sustainability, though it was also about defining my personal style. I wanted my wardrobe to feel more like me. That’s what led me to slow fashion brands, thrifting, and the joy of finding unique pieces that tell a story.

A Move Toward Slow Fashion

A selection of outfits I've worn since discovering my personal style and embracing reduced consumption. (The pink and nude outfit in the bottom right corner was handmade by me.)

You’ve probably heard “slow fashion” thrown around as a buzzword, but what does it actually mean? Slow fashion is an alternative approach to clothing production and consumption that prioritizes sustainability, ethics, and quality over rapid trend cycles and mass production. Its principles include:

• Quality and Durability: Using high-quality, sustainable materials and superior craftsmanship to create garments designed to last.

• Conscious Consumption: Encouraging consumers to buy less by investing in timeless, high-quality pieces that align with personal style and values.

Now, let me share my personal journey transitioning to slow fashion, it hasn’t been easy, but it’s been incredibly rewarding. Here’s what I’ve learned along the way:

1. Finding Brands That Resonate
I’ve discovered amazing brands like, Damson Madder, Meji Meji and Gimaguas that reflect my values and style. However, their price points reflect their commitment to quality and craftsmanship, making me think critically before purchasing. This mindset has naturally curbed the habit of buying multiple items at once.

2. Sales Are Your Friend
Shopping from independent and smaller brands can be pricey, but here’s a tip: wait for their sales. For instance, websites like Ssense have incredible sales at the start and end of the year and during summer.

3. Changing Habits, Changing Style
As I began consuming less, I developed a deeper appreciation for unique designs and craftsmanship. My desire to acquire more diminished, and I found joy in curating a wardrobe that truly reflects me.

4. Fabric Awareness
I became more mindful of fabrics, prioritizing natural fibers like cotton, wool, and linen, which are not only more sustainable but feel better to wear.

5. Feeling Good About Myself
There’s a sense of accomplishment and pride in aligning your actions with your values. Reducing my fast fashion consumption gave me a sense of agency and fulfillment.

6. Recovery Isn’t Linear
As a recovering over-consumer, I’ve had relapses. While I’ve reduced my fast fashion consumption by over 85%, there are moments when I purchase an item if it meets certain criteria, like being made from natural fibers. It’s a process, and that’s okay.

For those worried that slow fashion is too expensive, remember: second-hand shopping is your best friend! Depop, eBay, and thrift stores are treasure troves. Thrifting has become one of my favourite hobbies, it’s affordable, sustainable, and so rewarding and has completely expanded my idea of style.

Here are some benefits of thrifting:

• It reduces demand for new garments, minimizing waste.

• It’s affordable and accessible, helping you stick to a budget.

• Supporting local thrift stores often contributes to community programs and social initiatives.

If you’re in Toronto, check out YSM’s Double Take Thrift Store. In New York, try Angel Street Thrift Shop, and in London, don’t miss TRAID at Camden.

My Advice for Starting Your Slow Fashion Journey

Making a significant change isn’t easy, but if you care even a little about sustainability and reducing your carbon footprint, you have to start somewhere. And remember, I’m always here if you need advice!

A great way to start is by reading. Here’s a list of must-read books to inspire your journey toward conscious consumption :

• How to Break Up with Fast Fashion by Lauren Bravo

• Fashionopolis: The Price of Fast Fashion and the Future of Clothes by Dana Thomas

• Consumed by Aja Barber

• This is a Good Guide for a Sustainable Lifestyle by Marieke Eyskoot

• The Day the World Stops Shopping by J.B. MacKinnon

• Rise & Resist: How to Change the World by Clare Press

Never underestimate the ripple effect of your choices. Every effort you make influences those around you, creating a larger impact in the long run. Start small, stay consistent, and remember, it’s always worth it.

The Impact of Fast Fashion: A Case Study on Ghana

With all this talk about overconsumption and clothing, have you ever wondered where mass-produced second-hand clothes end up? Well, during one of my daily TikTok scrolls, I came across a video posted by The Guardian. In the video, Joseph Ayesu, an ecological researcher and manager for The Or Foundation in Ghana, showed the staggering volume of discarded clothing from the global North piling up on Jamestown Beach, Accra. He and his team clean up over 20 tons of clothing waste from the beach every single week, a direct consequence of overconsumption.

Images of the Or Foundation team during their weekly beach cleanups, Ghana's polluted oceans, and the landfills where a significant portion of imported clothing is discarded. Photos are sourced from the Or Foundation's website, James Mensah's paper, and a background image from Google Images.

According to Ayesu, around 15 million garments are imported into Ghana every week from all over the world. These clothes end up in Accra's Kantamanto Market, the largest second-hand market in the world. Yet, of these 15 million items, 40% are discarded, winding up in landfills or leaking into water bodies, where they eventually pollute the oceans.

Having lived along the coastline for over 35 years, Joseph has witnessed firsthand the devastating impact of this waste on the environment. Fishermen now find clothing in their nets instead of fish; turtles no longer come ashore to lay eggs, and fish mistakenly consume microfibers from synthetic fabrics. To combat this, Joseph and his team transport the collected waste to landfills located away from water bodies and use bioreactors to help these textiles degrade more slowly. However, he emphasizes that real change requires us to consume consciously and hold fast fashion brands accountable. While Ghana bears this burden today, the same crisis could unfold in other vulnerable communities if we don’t act says Joseph.

Curious to learn more, I dove into research on fast fashion waste and its impact on Ghana’s environment. What I found was overwhelming. As we know now, the global North’s discarded clothing, often second-hand and made from poor-quality synthetic fibres, frequently ends up in landfills in the global South. These landfills, often poorly managed and lacking methane capture services, release toxic fumes and greenhouse gases, worsening air pollution and contributing to climate change.

In a report by James Mensah titled The Global South as a Wasteland for the Global North’s Fast Fashion: Ghana in Focus, he highlights the cascading effects of this waste:

• Economic Impact: Local fishermen struggle as their nets become entangled with discarded clothing instead of fish, severely affecting their ability to earn a livelihood.

• Public Health Concerns: Burning textile waste releases harmful toxins, degrading air quality and increasing respiratory illnesses in surrounding communities.

• Environmental Degradation: Clothing waste pollutes water bodies, endangers marine life, and exacerbates waste management challenges.

• Neocolonial Dynamics: The situation underscores a neocolonial mindset, where countries like Ghana bear the environmental and social costs of the global North’s overproduction and waste.

Unfortunately, Ghana is not alone in facing this crisis. Similar issues have been documented in Bangladesh, India, and Chile, where the environmental, economic, and social consequences of fast fashion waste are just as severe.

The fast fashion industry’s impact on Ghana paints a harrowing picture of how our choices in the global North ripple out, affecting lives and ecosystems in the global South. It’s a stark reminder that overconsumption is not just an individual issue, it’s a global one.

Why Now? The Urgency of the Conversation

With everything happening in Ghana and around the world, you might wonder why are we having this chat now? Using Ghana as an example, I wanted to shine a light on what fast fashion’s ripple effects actually look like in real life and real-time. This isn’t just another trendy topic; it’s a conversation that matters more than ever.

Here’s why:

• Microplastic Pollution: Yep, those synthetic fast fashion pieces you throw in the wash? They’re shedding microplastics that end up in our oceans, causing all sorts of havoc.

• Biodiversity Loss: The supply chains for our clothes are guilty of soil degradation, destroying natural ecosystems, and polluting waterways. It’s like they’re fashionably late... to destroying the planet.

• Fast Fashion on Hyper-Speed: Thanks to social media and the never-ending cycle of micro-trends, clothes are ending up in landfills faster than you can say “add to cart.”

So, why now? Because if we start making changes today, we can push for more sustainable practices in fashion, get behind circular economy models, and prevent even more environmental damage. Let’s hit pause before it’s too late.

Photos taken on my thrifting adventures.

Final Thoughts

Here’s the thing: small changes add up. What The Or Foundation is doing in Ghana proves that every little effort counts. My journey toward being a recovering over-consumer hasn’t been perfect, but it’s taught me that even rethinking your purchases can create a ripple effect.

In the wise and fabulous words of Vivienne Westwood:
"Buy less clothes, keep wearing things that you’ve really chosen that you love, and that is status, it is not that you have to keep consuming”.

And with that, I’ll see you next Monday! Have an amazing week ahead, and remember, it’s never too late to make more thoughtful choices.